Like many animal shows, such as circuses and rodeos, the elephant round-up provides a mixed experience.
The challenge of course is to feed and care for such enormous creatures. Owners have formidable costs maintaining their charges.
Part three of this triptych is my very good friend Ben, who was given the Thai nickname Chang.
During Orientation, while Zachary caused every high school girl to blush, titter, and verge on fainting, Ben's most ardent fan was the ladyboy math teacher. Not that he doesn't get his fair share of female attention at Wong Ga Sai high school where he now teaches. But this was typical of Ben's luck. Our biggest gas during Orientation, not counting playing a game called Kitty in the Middle, was observing Ben do Thai dance. This may be where Ben earned his moniker, elephant, but I doubt it since most elephants could sway to the rhythm quite a bit more gracefully than Ben. Ben comes from Richmond, Virginia and a long, proud tradition of teachers. Yet Ben studied economics and religion at Hampden-Sydney, and he had never spent a day teaching before arriving in Thailand. Prior to coming here, Ben worked as a rafting guide in Wyoming. He ventured west, got his rafting guide license, and made a life for himself. He set out for Thailand in spite of a potentially life-altering medical condition, and the risks he would face in a foreign medical environment. What is interesting about Ben, and what makes me admire him so, is not his less than stellar luck but the pluck with which he meets it. Ben flashed us his signature dance move until I thought I might need stomach surgery myself. And then he stuck with it and got pretty damn good at it. Well...he got to an acceptable point, let's say that. Ben has embraced the experience that is Thailand, I think, more fully than any other volunteer. He scooted up to play tak kaw on the public courts in Pla Pak and he set himself up as the soccer coach for the boys team at his high school. He dives into every dish and in one short month he has come to know that first of all he wants to teach and second that he wants to stay in Thailand longer than one year, and that he wants to live in another 10 countries. He does not come from wealth or a family of world travelers. And he has none of the jaded ennui that often accompanies wealth and privilege. That is why I love doing things with him, because he loves doing them. He has the genuine curiosity and humility that encapsulates the best of an America I think may be a thing of the past, before we got so stuck on the idea of our so-called exceptionalism. I am probably being overly dramatic. Ben is a hell of listener- the kind of person who alertly witnesses what you are sharing with a rare non-judgmental patience. I can tell you he has helped me, a ragged-old-bag-of-sorry, through some of my harder days, just by the way he hears me. Perhaps this is where he got his nickname- the ears and the patience. Of course, if you ask Ben, he flops his arm in front of his body, and says, Oh, you know. It's the trunk. You know. The trunk!
There was a moment in Surin where Ben proved just what kind of person he is. We were, thirteen of us, happily drinking out doors at the small bar with the motorcycles (shown in an earlier post), when a very drunk and revved up large fellow with a shaved head wandered in with a half empty bottle of whiskey. I saw him duck in the bar and my old man radar immediately got clicking trouble, though at this point no one else but my friend the bar owner really noticed him. He was shirtless and my gut just read, watch that. and the bar owner and I exchanged knowing glances. I didn't think about it again since he was gone for a while, but then he came stumbling out the the bar at the other end of our table of volunteers. I tensed again, but it appeared though he was talking aloud to himself he was going to stumble on into the night. Then one of the volunteers from my end of the table, apparently someone with no radar at all, hollered to him to ask how he was doing. That was all he needed. Seeing us for the first time he swiveled around to stand behind Ben and Rita and begin disclaiming in a drunken rant some nonsense or other. Everyone at the table quickly quieted down and the scene became very tense. He was not overtly aggressive, but he was so drunk his lit cigarette kept flailing within centimeters of Rita's face. He was a big and stupid drunk and the situation could have easily gone any which way. I know I did not act, though the situation clearly called for it. Ben got to his feet and stood toe to toe with him. putting himself between the drunk and everyone else. Ben is not small, but this man was easily four inches taller. Ben quietly and firmly said, "It is time for you to go." The guy looks him in the eye. We hold our collective breath. Ben says it again and takes him firmly and steps him down off the sidewalk. We breathe a collective sigh of relief. He has not decided to challenge Ben. He is suddenly a friendly drunk about to stumble on his merry way to some gutter. Ben turns back to the group with a smile. But no! The drunk is going to stumble into an oncoming truck! We suck in another wheezing gasp. Ben springs back into action, darting down into the street to grab the silly drunk in his arms and save his life. The truck rumbles by, the drunk stumbles on (oblivious to his near fatal moment), and Ben turns with a hearty laugh at the strangeness of it all. I don't recall anyone thanking Ben, but I am now, here. Thanks Chang. I have lived long enough to know the vast gap between those of us who think we would act in those two moments and how many of us actually would. So I raise my Chang to Chang and all the changs! May they all live long and prosper!
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